May Showers...Where Do Chocolate Eggs Come From?

May blew in and blew out, leaving us with the precursor of Summer: warm sunshine and bright skies. The excitement of the Presidential Election created a sense of hope and expectation; and I have to confess that I felt as much if not more witnessing the tremendous outpouring of excitement. But everything that seems promising does not develop as expected; in which case one must recognize comme les français, c'est la vie. In politics, M. Hollande got on with the real work of 'being' Monsieur Le President in spite of an electrifying win and lightening start on his first day in office.(forgive my attempts at puns).

The elections are not over!! As we begin June, the important legislative elections begin. More on this as it develops.

The eggs we (I) decorated...smile.

Before this, I must go back to April as I skipped some important aspects of that month: namely, Easter or Pâques!!! As in America, the root of Pâques is as religious celebration commemorating the Resurrection of Christ--a high holiday in both the Protestant and Catholique faiths. In France, a nation that remains a majority Catholic nation, Pâques always includes an additional "off" day usually the Monday following the holiday.

Easter seemed to signal the beginning of a series of three-day-weekends, which when you want to travel gives you a great opportunity to do so without using vacation time at work. But if you are like me, trying to wade through documents at an archive that respects every one of these holidays, it can be daunting when there are four long weekends in a series of four weeks!!! But I digress...smile.

We were immediately awed by the wonderful chocolate creations just down the street and on the walk to my son's elementary school. To keep up with the comparisons, there were plenty of chocolate eggs, bears, and bunnies in the windows of the chocolate stores--but in addition to these, we found there were also chocolate chickens!!!

If you are wondering why there are chocolate chickens, you need only consider the logic that if there are chocolate eggs, they must come from somewhere!!! I love French people!!!
--more soon,
t.

Presidential Politics and Coup de Foudre

May...Change Arrives!!

May rolled in with the promise of a change in weather and a potential change in France's political climate. In a monumental victory for the Socialist Party, François Hollande defeated the incumbent Nicolas Sarkozy in the first Socialist presidential win in 17 years! The difference in the campaigning styles of the two candidates was apparent--even for a non-native like me-- unmistakeably contrasting, both in their styles of political rhetoric and as well as their personalities. The race was a close one with 51.9 % of the votes going to Hollande and 49.1 % to sitting-President Sarkozy. 

Beyond this incredibly close result, the shocker in the race was the performance of the far right party candidate Marine Le Pen, leader of the National Front Party; Le Pen garnered 17.9 % of the French vote. This percentage is even more impressive when one considers that Le Pen won a greater percent of support for the far-right party (NF) founded by her father (Jean-Marie) than he could managed to draw. Coupled with the fact that Ms. Le Pen only recently took over the party seems to signal that despite her defeat in the 2012 election, she will continue to be influential in French politics.


Today, the wind blew in cold winds from the north and along with it rain and a chill that we haven't experienced for a few days. The sunshine from the weekend disappeared behind heavy grey clouds and intermittent downpours. But none of this could dampen the pomp and circumstance that occurred on the Champs Elysees! The new President François Hollande was sworn in and exchanged Nuclear codes with exiting President Sarkozy. Hollande's ceremony was--according to reporters--considerably less pompous than his predecessor's. Regardless of this, as an outsider looking on, the ceremonial trip down the Champs Elysees to Hotel de Ville that Hollande took equipped with an escort of mounted guards in full-regalia was tremendously impressive. At the end of the exchange between Hollande and Sarkozy, Sarkozy took the long walk along an enormous red carpet to a long black limousine, waiting with doors open, to whisk him away for the last time. As the car drove away, Sarkozy waved through a partially cracked window as supporters and perhaps some that did not, shouted "Merci Sarkozy." One must admire the politeness of the French!


Hollande did not waste anytime but headed immediately to Germany to meet with Mrs. Merkel. In an interesting incident, President Hollande's aircraft was hit by lightning and had to turn around. While this might have been seen as something negative, but being struck by lightning in France or coup de foudre refers to 'love at first sight'--Mrs. Merkel apparently mentioned the positive omen this according to the BBC. No one was hurt and Hollande was able to change planes and continue his trip to Germany. Let's hope that it is "love at first sight" and the coup de foudre continues long enough for them to come to an agreement.

Merkel and Hollande meet for the first time (c) BBC 2012

Vive la France -- Electing a New President of the Republique!

Sunday was the first round of the French Presidential Election. Aside from the myriad of posters pasted on everything, any and all possible stationary objects--electrical boxes, street signs, street posts, metal barriers, walls, etc--I was surprised by the relatively low pressured approach to presidential election coverage on television. In fact, in spite of the posters all around town and the various "artistic" modifications made to each candidate's face by les Citoyens the media climate has been quite different than the non-stop media blitz we have become used to in the US that begins earlier and earlier every four years. 

It seemed to me the presidential election was the best kept secret in the whole of France right up to a few weeks before the first round of the general election occurred. Prior to this, the media coverage consisted of a few evening televised discussions and nightly blurbs about campaign stops made by the challenging candidates. Current President Nicolas Sarkosy did not announce his candidacy to run for reelection until February 15, 2012 a little more than two months prior to the election. Sarkosy had a press conference announcing he would release a letter to the French people addressing his concerns and detailing his plan for the future. On my way to do our Saturday shopping, I received a copy of the letter after being stopped by a few supporters passing them out to any and all who would take one. Despite not being able to vote, I took one, smile.


The comparatively subdued nature of media coverage of the Presidential election is surprising to those of us who are not French--especially in contrast to the out right full-contact sport political campaigns approach and flood of commercials we must endure in the US. As a neutral by-stander it has been truly interesting watching from the sidelines.

The differences in the media 'heat' are not just because of cultural differences between the French and Americans, but also have to do with the laws that govern the election and constrain politicians' methods of distributing their messages to the public via the media. Unlike the constant media bombardment we experience in the US, each candidate is given the same amount of air-time broadcast in a kind of group commercial. 

The commercials varied in style and scope: there was comedic approach of Philippe Poutou, whose commercials featured a game show host segment and a black and white silent film, and contrasted to the rousing film reels of Socialist Party Francois Hollande featuring footage from WWII and his voice, compelling rhetoric championing the need for change. 


Green Party candidate Eva Joly's commerical featured a moving score and her reading a self-penned letter to the people of France in voice-over. Incumbent Sarkosy's segment featured him against a blue background in packed-out stadiums and a sea of French Flags, waving like ripples in an ocean of bleu, blanc et rouge. 

The commercial--that aired right before the nightly news--presented a standardized introduction of each candidate listing their name and not their party before and immediately following their individual segment. The music between each segment was the most exciting element in the presentation, reminiscent of the score to The Matrix (the first one), intense, suspenseful, heightening the anticipation--this was the election of the new president of The Republic! The music seemed to be indicative of the tension, expectation and excitement one could expect on Election Day.

So, when Sunday April 22, 2012 rolled around, I expected lines outside the two schools that are just next to our apartment. We'd watched the workers installing the ten metal partitions with each candidate's image next to a number (this number I assumed, corresponded to their number on the ballot) and the metal stairs equipped with an attached ramp for those with mobility issues. 


CNN's Paris correspondent, Jim Bittermann, had been on TV earlier in the day just down the street from our place right in front of the 18eme Mairie (my son recognized the bus we ride occasionally to a grande jouet magasin--this massive toy store, big by US standards). On election day, we braved the rain and went out to 'witness' the event--witnessing history first hand!!! 

But to my surprise, the election sites (two schools across from each other) were both empty. 


We walked down the rue to the Mairie and found a crowd--so crowded, it was difficult to walk down the sidewalk--a line stretching all along the street, seemingly leading toward the Mairie. Could this be the electorate of the Republic, les Citoyens exercising their power in the political process? 


Mais non--just folks out looking for a deal at the Sunday puce (a kind of flea-market style sidewalk sale)!!! One newscaster commented on the TV that in the first round of the Presidential election, the French vote with their hearts and in the second round they vote with their pocketbooks! 


We'll see! So far as a bystander it has been truly interesting observing the differences between the American all out war approach to politics and the more finessed method (at least media wise) in the French election. We still have one more round in May between Sarkosy and Hollande--looking forward to seeing how the rest of the match plays out!! more soon~

What Red Tape??

Changes in the Immigration and Visa laws in France meant in addition to applying for a long-stay visa at the French Consulate in Los Angeles I was also required to submit an additional application, have a medical examination and "interview" at the OFII in Paris upon arrival. Let me tell you, it was very intimidating--a medical examination--seriously? LOL! I expected lots of red tape. A line from Casablanca (1942) kept running through my mind, "They went to Casablanca and waited...and waited...and waited."


In preparation for the appointment, I started brushing up on my French vocab for body parts and phrases one uses when seeing a doctor. I had no idea what sort of examination it would be, but all sorts of stuff came to mind. And with an acronym like the <<OFII>>, it sounded scary, smile (kidding). On a serious note, I had "heard" some horror stories about people having problems because they didn't get the proper amount of documents copied, etc. So, I had a respectable amount of apprehension about reporting to the OFII. 


My letter for the appointment came in the mail printed on official water marked paper with the French flag printed in color. 

Entrance around the corner...

I arrived at the OFII office early as I had an 8:30h appointment. I'd made my copies and extras just in case. I had every single document on the list of necessary items, and a few that were listed online that may or may not be requested. Having an appointment made me feel better--I'd simply get there at my slotted time and shoot through...right.

Who knew!!! LOL, not only had I been given the 8:30h time slot, about 50 or more other foreigners, comme moi, had also been given the same appointment time. HILARIOUS!!! After I got over how funny it was that I thought I'd been given a special time for the interview, it was really quite fun to see the French system at work. I picked up some great vocab while waiting, such as: 

Vous-attendez? 

Are you in line? (Literally) Are you waiting?

A quelle heure c'est ouvert?

What time do they open?

And my favorite no translation necessary:  

Merdre, c'est la ligne!!!???

First, we were all eventually let into the building and our massive line was divided up into small groups, which became smaller lines. After answering a series of questions, we were then moved on to two sections 1st) waiting on the medical exam then 2nd) waiting on the interview.

They processed us like pros--screening us and sending anyone whose only response to questions was a blank stare to a special room. Eventually, they had grouped us and started moving us through.

Thankfully, the aps that I'd downloaded for my son took my mind off of the time. I played a virtual bull-eye game throwing kick-balls at moving targets with my index finger. 


Once my name was called and I finally moved to the medical section, it wasn't long before my name was called again and I moved to yet another line waiting for the exam. It consisted of a chest x-ray, and eye exam, and an interview with a doctor. 

Now, this what I have learned about my French language skills--when people try to help me by speaking in Freng-lish, bits and pieces of both languages--I cannot understand one thing that is being said. In fact, it is better, I've found, when the person just gets on and speaks full out French. 

So, once in the office for the eye test, the eye-guy, LOL, decides he wants to speak Englench or Frenglish. He started off in French, but switched to the mix after I drew a blank when he asked me if I am pregnant (enceinte), which I always mix up with (enseignant), which is a teacher. HAHAHAAH! Was being pregnant part of visa process? Were pregnant women given special passes and moved to the front of the ligne? 

Can I help it if it took me a minute to work it out? He was either asking me if I am a teacher (which, I suppose is ultimately what I will one day do, so I'd have to answer yes yadah yadah, yah...) OR he was asking me if I am pregnant, which would be a big fat NO. Context, context.

In the end he helped me out and made the universal dome shape movement over his mid-section, confirming my guess about the word, and helping me to quickly reply in the negative.

My directions were to go into one of the numbered doors and after locking it behind me, I was to undress to the waist in order to take the x-ray. I moved into a smaller area with three numbered doors...

Which door would I take, 1, 2, or 3. All around this waiting area were condom posters. 

I couldn't quite work out why there would be a bunch of condom posters all over the immigration office, LOL. 

I went into door 2.

Later I met with a very nice doctor, who listened to my heart, took my blood pressure, and handed me a copy of my chest x-ray. In a matter of minutes I had the x-ray in my hand...no zillions of forms to fill out to get it, no weeks to wait to process my request for my ex-ray, no need to drive over to some radiology center across town. I quickly put it in my over-sized bag which now doubles as my shopping bag in a pinch. We chatted about why I am in France and as I walked out the office, he wished me success and commented about how big my purse was. It went something like this: 


Ah, la-la, la-la, la-la! Bonne chance!(And I think he said) C'est dans la poche!


In response, I said the universal response at least from what I've heard here, a one word expression with a thousand meanings: "Voila."


The doctors' comment,"C'est dans la poche," which I took to mean anything could fit in my purse, was more of a double entendre since the expression can mean it will be a success...or it's in the bag. But it was time to move to the next station--no time for my polite, "Repetez-s'il vous plait" to be sure.


Off to another waiting area for the final step. In an office just next to where I sat, I could here some of the questions being asked. They were pretty standard, what's your addresss, how long have you been here, etc. 


When it was my turn I expected the same and I was not disappointed...It was quicker than getting a vaccination and a lot less painful. The OFII allows you to pay for your "stamp" online and print out the receipt. After handing this over, the officer/clerk placed my stamp in my passport and c'est fini! Vive la France!!!

Research at Richelieu

BnF ~ Richelieu Library
(Bourse, 2eme arrondissement)

Oval Salon

Richelieu is one branch of the massive institution that is Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BnF) or the National Library of France. 


Richelieu Library's impressive grand salon is worth seeing and is as awe-inspiring as the collection held within its archive. 


Viviane Thomas eloquently  describes the oval reading room at Richelieu and the history behind this incredible library and some of the other outstanding libraries in Paris. Click here for her article: http://www.francetoday.com/articles/2012/04/16/paris_by_the_book.html

Arts du Spectacles Reading Room

Housing BnF's special collections such
as performing arts, prints and photographs, manuscripts, maps and plans, Richelieu holds an unprecedented amount of materials.


I am working in a beautiful reading room and accessing documents from the Arts du Spectacle and Bibliothèque l'Arsenal collections.

A red carpeted white marble staircase leads to the Arts du Spectacles' Reading Room, framed by graceful wrought-iron that graces every window in the city. 


Richelieu also holds multiple exhibits through out the year. Currently, the library displays coins and monnaies in it's Department of Monnaies, médailles et antiques.

Currently, Richelieu is undergoing renovations, in order to expand the services and materials it offers to researchers and the public. 




The modern entrance blends with the 18th and 19th century buildings that make up a large portion of the complex. 


Getting into Richelieu and BnF as a researcher the first time, I'd been told, could be as difficult as getting a reservation at Spagos, Beverly Hills, heehee (reference for you Californians). 



But, to my surprise, I had no problems and the orientation was thorough. I promptly forgot everything I was told--about the intricate and multifaceted process one must go through in order to actually use the library--as soon as I stood up to leave the registration and researchers membership office, smile. Thankfully, I was handed a load of brochures/guides to research as I walked out. 

And just across the street from Richelieu there's an antique book dealer, right next to a Jean Paul Gautier Boutique, Paris baby--yeah!!! Smile.What else could a girl need in life, books and haute couture! These are just some of the photos that I have shamelessly taken while researching at Richelieu~

more soon,

t.

Market Day on Ordener

One of the things that the apartment listing said about our flat was that it was close to a weekly market and the subway! We would be able to get the best fresh veggies just not far from our front door. 


This wasn't exactly what it said, smile, but it was not an exaggeration. The market is just around the corner and starts early three mornings a week and shuts down by 3 pm. 

Now, if you happen to use the metro on a day when the market is on, it can be like walking the gauntlet. The normal rush slows to a crawl and the sidewalk is reduced to a one lane walkway about the width of a foot path. The flow along this dramatically reduced walkway can at any moment come to an abrupt stop, when someone five folks deep decides they want to visit with a neighbor. 

It is absolutely hilarious the number of people--i.e. elderly women, heehee--who think nothing of stopping in the middle of a sidewalk  blocking the entire path to say hello to a friend. You have to LOVE it--and the rolling shopping bags that are more like rolling suitcases~ You need them here because most stores do not provide plastic bags!


Getting to the metro on market day means going past tables filled with everything you can possibly think of buying, not only fresh fruits, veggies, but also fish and meats, clothing, socks and shoes (for men, women, and children), house hold products--like copper scrubbers, and stove burner covers--hair color, lotions, and stuff you just wouldn't think you'd find on the same sidewalk you use to get to the metro.


 I keep saying that one day I am going to go and take pictures of all the most unusual things that are for sale--we'll see! I took these pictures on the down low--moving quickly as I could without making it obvious that I was actually taking pics.


The French market is definitely something you must visit if you come here--but I warn you, don't go shopping on an empty stomach!! You'll buy far more than your little fridge can hold and even more still than you'll want to carry up five flights of stairs!!! Oh yeah, getting LOTS of exercise here :) 
more soon, 
t.

RAPT = The Best Tour Bus in Paris

Vendors along the Seine
(pic taken on RATP)

News flash!! The way to see Paris is by bus! RATP, Paris' mass transit authority has a great website--enter your location and the address of your destination and the digital route finder will create an itinerary allowing you to select the parameters of your journey. These parameters include choosing the fastest route, a route that uses buses only or metros only (subways) or the route that requires the least amount of walking. The main site is in french of course: www.rapt.fr; but their site also provides information in six other languages including English, mais bien sur~ Here's the site: http://www.ratp.fr/en/ratp/c_21879/tourists/


Tickets are unusually inexpensive for such a large city and transit tickets can be used for all forms of public transportation including buses, the metros, trams, and many RER trains within the metropole. There are also great deals for transit passes 1 to 5 days for all three zones of Paris ranging in price and starting at 4.85Euros.

Hotel de Ville, Paris
pic taken from RATP bus :)

A wonderful and less known fact that I have discovered is that RATP buses are a great way to see the city!!! Hop on the 69 and you'll see more monuments and sites than you can hit with a stick! Want to see Richelieu and l'Opera--hop on the 85. Not only do many individual buses go from neighborhoods into the city centre and to major sights, there are also city buses dedicated to sight seeing. These are called Balades touristique--see this link for more about it: http://www.ratp.fr/en/ratp/c_21898/sightseeing-tours/

The Tour Eiffel is still impressive on a bus
with an impressive storm blowing in.

Riding a bus is also an awesome way to get to know your way around the city! It provides you with an excellent sense of how close and collected the arrondissements really are--more so than when walking, which can take longer to feel out and more so than on the subway, which keeps you underground. As the weather has become warmer, I have enjoyed being outside and on a bus. It also gives you a chance to take pictures in a very unobtrusive way and to see things you might not see just walking around.

It might have taken months maybe years for me to find some cool record shop or to find out that rue Drouot is where you'd go to buy rare stamps??!! Think about the movie "Charade" or the remake "The Truth about Charlie" a line of shops with rare timbres--only in Paris, smile!!! more soon, 

t.